Book Review: Moonlight in Odessa

I just finished reading Moonlight in Odessa, the first novel by American-born Paris expat Janet Skeslien Charles.

Most Anglophone writers in Paris know Janet from the famous Shakespeare & Company bookstore, where she has taught a writing workshop for several years. As one of her former students I was thrilled to hear about her published book. And like a new baby or Beaujolais Nouveau, everyone celebrates the arrival, and it isn't important whether it's any good.

But of course Moonlight in Odessa is not just good, it's hard to put down! Here is the back cover description:

"After months pf searching, twenty-three-year-old Daria, armed with perfect English and an engineering degree, finds a job at a big foreign company in Odessa. Unfortunately, her boss makes it clear that sleeping with him is the first item on her to-do list.

Daria evades his advances by setting him up with her neighbor, the slippery Olga. But soon Olga sets her sights on Daria's job, and Daria finds herself moonlighting as an interpreter at Soviet Unions, a matchmaking agency. As she bridges the language gaps between desperate Odessa women and lonely foreign men, Daria finds herself tempted by the American Dream, and faces the choice between her beloved city and the West, between a sexy, irresponsible mobster and a gentle teacher.

Exploring the booming business of email-order brides, an industry where love and marriage collise with sex and money, Moonlight in Odesssa is a darkly humorous debut about the choices and sacrifices we make in pursuit of love and stability, and the lengths we will go to for a happy ending."

Of course, there is a twist. More than one! But without giving too much of the story away I can say that what impressed me the most was how the characters acted illogically at towns. Some critics say that you can't create a smart, independent woman and then have her act in a silly, irresponsible way. Au contraire!

How many times have you, a savvy and intelligent adult, done something that is so completely idiotic that you can only sheepishly shrug your shoulders later when you've come back to your senses? And of course most of the things we do that we wish we didn't involve the opposite sex. The same is true for Daria, as well as her would-be suitors, who each in turn act in ways that are sometimes honorable but usually awful, simply because they want Daria to love them.

Of course the protagonist has to face the consequences of her bad choices, but she eventually figures out who she is and -- most important -- who she is not. It's always heartening to see someone, real or fictional, who learns something from their mistakes and makes the decision to move on with life. This is a great book for all women who need a bit of a kick in the derrière when it comes to their love life.

And kudos to an author who has enough sense to make the ending just a bit ambiguous. I chalk that up to her decade of living in France, a country that has mastered the art of subtlety. No one needs to be smacked over the head with the Hollywood ending.

Finally, the novel is a great introduction to the city of Odessa (Janet even has a guided photo tour of the city on her website so you can see the places that are mentioned in the book), and the way of life in post-communist Ukraine, including a look on the other side of the mail-order bride industry.

I highly recommend Moonlight in Odessa, which you can find in paperback in Europe (UK launch in February) and in hardback in the US/Canada.

If you're in Paris, Janet will be reading and signing books at two events: 

November 12 at the American Library (10, rue du Général Camou, 75007 Paris 01 53 59 12 60)
Talk: A discussion of how to take a subject that fascinates you as a writer and transform it into a subject that will interest your reader. We will also talk about the process of writing and research.

February 15 at 7 pm at Shakespeare & Co (37, rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris 01 43 25 40 93).

Janet and me at the book launch party in October 2009.

Every Woman Should 'Hammam' at Least Once

Whether it's to detox after a night out, to recover elegantly from jetlag, or simply to relax with the ladies, the traditional Turkish baths of Paris are the perfect place for women to cleanse and rejeuvenate their bodies...

Like most Parisiennes, I returned from my sunny vacation to a grey and damp Paris with an autumn cold as my welcome home bonus. While partying until dawn with Champagne in my favorite nightclub might take away the blahs for a few hours, it certainly doesn't leave this 'demoiselle with the energy to face another chilly morning in the urban jungle.

Luckily, I have finally learned what all of the savvy Parisian ladies do to feel better instantly, both inside and out: a trip to the hammam.

A hammam is also known as a Turkish bath, a Middle Eastern style steam bath that has been used in Arabic cultures around the world for centuries to cleanse, purify, and relax the body and soul. In France, thanks to its large population of Tunisian, Moroccan, Algerian and Middle Eastern descent, there are many hammams.

One of the best known is at La Mosquée de Paris, open to men and women on different days. It's a beautiful setting, but the large size means that it can be quite noisy and crowded, which may be great for those who go to socialize (and many do), but less interesting if you're looking for more peace,  relaxation, and personalized service.

For this, I go to O-Kari, a new hammam devoted exclusively to women in the Montorgueil district of Paris (2nd arrondissement). Hidden at the back of a historic courtyard, it's a small, intimate hammam open by reservation only for only a handful of women at a time -- the better for the lovely female staff to pamper you!

When you enter, you're given a locker with flipflops, fuzzy bathrobe, towel for your hair, and a disposable bikini brief to wear in the hammam to keep you from being completely naked (you can bring your own bathing suit or bikini if you prefer, but most French women just wear the panty provided and nothing else under their robes).

You're then shown into the lounge area where the owner Karima will welcome you with a mint tea and some authentic North African pastries, fruit and almonds. The entire hammam is decorated with Middle Eastern pottery, candles, and beautiful stone mosaic tiling. Karima then explains how the hammam works, the history of hammams in Arabic cultures, and of course she is there to answer any questions for newcomers. Because even if you've done the spa thing, this is a bit different.

Whenever you're ready, you hang your bathrobe on one of the hooks outside and enter the eucalyptus-infused steam room. Take a seat or lie down on the mosaic-tiled benches, with the twinkling fiber optic stars in the ceiling, and start to relax. When it gets too hot, you can splash yourself with bowls of cool water from the fountain in the room, or go back out and sit in the cool room for a few moments.

You do this back and forth for 15-30 minutes until your pores are opened. Then one of the young ladies comes in to rub you down with the savon d'alep, a traditional olive oil soap that's excellent for your skin. After a few more moments in the steam room and a good rinse, you're ready for the gommage, or exfoliation. 

You lie down on the heated granite table (it's actually more comfortable than it sounds) with a pillow for your head, as the talented attendant uses a loofah-type mitt and savon noir, or black soap made from linseed oil, to scrub every inch of your body. It's great for not only getting rid of all the dead skin, but also helping your circulation and skin tone. The ladies are very careful to make sure it feels good, not like you're being scrubbed raw. They take their time, and after they're done exfoliating they apply a nourishing mask to your hair and give you the most divine scalp massage.

After what feels like an hour later (there are no clocks in the hammam), you're rinsed off with a warm shower and escorted into the large Jacuzzi, kept at a comfortable 30°C/86°F. They will bring you a cool citronnade of lemon juice and orange blossom syrup to sip as you let the water jets continue to massage your back and shoulders. You can also return to the steam room if you like if you want to heat up a bit more.

About 12-30 minutes later your attendant will again come and fetch you to the massage table where you'll be given an anti-aging honey mask facial and a full body wrap made from nourishing brewer's yeast. This entire treatment takes about 45-60 minutes. Steamed, scrubbed, massaged and rinsed, you get your robe and head back to the lounge for a fruit cocktail. There are also salads and other snacks if you're peckish. By now you'll be floating into the locker room, where you can dress and dry your hair before heading back to the real world, totally relaxed and energized to face the chilly weather.

Sounds blissful? It is! If you'd like to try it yourself, I recommend going with a friend. O-Kari is having a "bring a friend" special through the rest of October (weekdays only): €200 for two women, which is just €100 each for a half day of pampering, unheard of in Paris! I would go every day if I didn't have to work. :) Even the regular prices are more than reasonable, starting at €90 (for the hammam/Jacuzzi, exfoliation and hair treatment) to €330 for the full "Prestige" package. No matter which one you select, count on spending at least an extra hour relaxing in the steam room and lounge, because there's no point in going to a hammam to relax if you have to rush away afterwards.

You can privatize the hammam for your group of friends for about €150/person for 10 women, which is perfect for special events, weddings, birthdays, or just when you and your friends want to get away from it all. The hammam experience is also perfect for jetlag recovery. Schedule a session if you arrive too early to check in to your hotel, or to just enjoy a relaxing, cultural experience guilt-free. The hammam experience is a very Parisian experience that all women should try at least once -- although I'm sure you'll become an addict!

Do tell Karima I sent you; I promise you'll be well received with her warm and friendly hospitality. :)

O'Kari Hammam
22 Rue Dussoubs - 75002 Paris
01 42 36 94 66
contact@o-kari.com

Watch the video here, in French; English and many other languages spoken.